Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) Installation

100% Waterproof. Indestructible durability. Stunning realism.

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The Future of Flooring is Waterproof

Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) has revolutionized the flooring industry. Gone are the days of cheap, peeling "linoleum." Modern LVP is a high-tech, engineered product that combines the stunning visuals of real hardwood or stone with indestructible durability. It is the fastest-growing flooring segment in the world for a reason: it solves real-life problems.

For active families in South Jordan and Draper, LVP is the "silver bullet" of flooring. Do you have big dogs with claws? Kids who spill juice? A pool in the backyard? LVP handles it all. Unlike hardwood, it doesn't scratch easily. Unlike laminate, it doesn't swell when wet. And with high-definition digital printing, it looks so realistic that most guests have to touch it to believe it isn't wood.

Why LVP is the Ultimate Utah Floor

Utah's climate is harsh, and our lifestyle is active. LVP is uniquely suited to our environment:

  • 100% Waterproof: This is not a marketing gimmick. You can flood LVP, dry it off, and re-install it. It is perfect for mudrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, and basements where water is a constant threat.
  • Thermal Stability: Rigid Core (SPC) vinyl does not expand and contract like wood. This means we can install it in sunrooms or cabins with large temperature swings without fear of buckling.
  • Pet Proof: It provides traction for paws and is impervious to accidents. If a pet makes a mess, it wipes up without staining or retaining odors.
Modern bathroom with luxury vinyl plank flooring

Understanding the Core: SPC vs. WPC

Not all vinyl is created equal. The performance of your floor depends entirely on the core technology. We help you choose the right one:

Stone Polymer Composite (SPC)

Also known as "Rigid Core." The core is made of limestone powder and stabilizers. It is incredibly dense, heavy, and hard.
Pros: Indestructible, virtually dent-proof (drop a can of soup, it won't dent), withstands heavy furniture.
Cons: Harder underfoot, slightly colder.
Best For: Commercial spaces, kitchens, main levels with heavy traffic.

Wood Polymer Composite (WPC)

The core contains foaming agents and wood flour.
Pros: Softer, warmer, and quieter underfoot. It feels more like real wood when walking on it.
Cons: Can dent if a heavy object is dropped.
Best For: Second-floor bedrooms, playrooms, basements seeking warmth.

The Wear Layer: Your Shield

The durability of vinyl is measured in "mils" (thousandths of an inch). This clear protective coating sits on top of the print film.

  • 12 mil: Residential standard. Good for bedrooms and low-traffic areas. 15-year warranty typically.
  • 20 mil: The "Sweet Spot" for active homes. Rated for light commercial use. Perfect for hallways, kitchens, and living rooms. This is what we recommend for 90% of our clients.
  • 30+ mil: Heavy Commercial. Used in hospitals and airports. Overkill for a home, but available if you want the ultimate armor.

Our Installation Process

LVP is often sold as a "click-it-and-forget-it" product, but professional installation matters. Here is how we do it differently:

  1. Laser Leveling: LVP is thinner than wood. It telegraphs subfloor imperfections. We grind high spots and fill low spots to a tolerance of 3/16" over 10 feet. If we skip this, your locking mechanisms will break in 6 months.
  2. Undercutting Jambs: We saw the bottom of door jambs and casings so the flooring slides underneath for a clean, custom look. Amateurs cut around the jamb and fill the gap with ugly caulk.
  3. Random Stagger: We open 4-5 boxes at a time and work from all of them to mix the pattern repeats. We carefully stagger end joints to avoid "H-joints" or "step patterns," ensuring a natural flow.
  4. Baseboards & Trim: We remove your existing baseboards (or install new modern ones) rather than using Quarter Round (shoe molding) everywhere. This results in a cleaner, higher-end finish.

Frequently Asked Questions About LVP

Common questions about vinyl flooring.

1. Is LVP really waterproof?

Yes. The planks themselves are made of plastic/stone composite. They cannot absorb water. However, if you have a major flood, water can seep through the seams and get underneath to the subfloor. The floor itself will be fine, but the subfloor might need drying.

2. Does it look like real wood?

Astonishingly so. Manufacturers use "Embossed in Register" (EIR) technology, where the texture stamped onto the plank perfectly matches the wood grain image. If you see a knot in the picture, you feel a knot with your finger. It eliminates the "plastic" feel.

3. Can I install it over my old floors?

Often, yes. LVP can "float" over existing tile, linoleum, or hardwood, provided the surface is flat and hard. We cannot install it over carpet or cushioned vinyl. We will inspect your current floor to confirm.

4. Why is my LVP separating or gapping?

Gapping is usually caused by temperature swings (sunlight hitting the floor) in a floor that wasn't given proper expansion gaps at the walls. It can also happen if the locking mechanism is broken during a bad install.

5. Is it good for bathrooms?

It is the best wood-look option for bathrooms. You get the warmth and style of wood without the risk of rot or mold. It is also warmer on bare feet than ceramic tile.

6. Does it fade in the sun?

Cheaper vinyls will fade. High-quality LVP comes with a UV-resistant wear layer. However, in intense Utah direct sunlight (south-facing sliding doors), we recommend closing blinds or using UV film on windows, as any material will eventually fade under extreme UV exposure.

7. Can I use a steam mop?

NO. Never steam vinyl. The heat can warp the planks and damage the wear layer. Use a damp mop with a pH-neutral cleaner. That is all you need.

8. What is the difference between LVP and LVT?

LVP stands for Luxury Vinyl Plank (looks like wood planks). LVT stands for Luxury Vinyl Tile (looks like stone/ceramic squares). It is the same material, just cut into different shapes.

9. Do I need an underlayment?

Most modern LVP comes with an attached pad (cork or foam) on the back. Adding another soft pad underneath is actually bad—it makes the floor too squishy and can break the locks. We usually install directly over the subfloor unless a specific sound barrier is required by an HOA.

10. Can I put heavy cabinets on floating vinyl?

No. Floating floors need to move. If you pin them down with a heavy kitchen island, the floor will buckle when it tries to expand. You must install cabinets first, then floor around them (or use a glue-down vinyl).