The beauty of real wood with superior stability. The smart choice for Utah homes.
Request a QuoteEngineered hardwood is not "fake" wood. It is a brilliant evolution of traditional flooring. It consists of a top layer (wear layer) of genuine high-quality hardwood—Oak, Maple, Hickory—bonded to a high-density multi-ply plywood core. This cross-grain construction makes it incredibly stiff, stable, and resistant to the humidity fluctuations that plague solid wood.
For South Jordan and Draper homeowners, this is often the superior choice, especially for basements or homes built on concrete slabs. Utah's climate is extremely dry, but our basements can be damp or humid. Solid wood expands and contracts violently in these mixed conditions, leading to cupping or gaps. Engineered wood stays flat, stable, and gorgeous year after year, delivering the authentic look of wood with superior engineering under the hood.
Many clients ask us, "Why not just use solid wood?" The answer lies in the structural integrity. The core layers of engineered wood are stacked in alternating directions. This "cross-ply" construction counteracts the natural tendency of wood to expand along the grain. This results in distinct advantages:
We don't believe in "one size fits all." Depending on your subfloor (plywood vs. concrete) and the specific product, we use one of three expert installation methods:
The gold standard for concrete slabs. We use premium, moisture-curing urethane adhesives (like Bostik or Sika). This creates a permanent bond, a solid feel underfoot (no hollow "clicking" sound), and acts as an additional moisture vapor barrier. It requires significant skill to keep the glue off the finish—a skill our installers have mastered through years of experience.
Used over wooden subfloors. Similar to solid wood installation, this is fast and secure. We use specialized pneumatic staplers that drive resin-coated staples into the tongue of the board. This holds the planks firmly to the subfloor while allowing for the necessary micro-movements.
Some modern engineered floors utilize a click-lock system or are glued at the tongue and groove but not to the subfloor. We install these over a high-quality sound-dampening underlayment (padding). This is an excellent choice for condos (sound reduction) or when installing over a subfloor that cannot be glued to (like gypcrete).
Not all engineered floors are created equal. The extensive price difference you see in stores is primarily due to the "wear layer"—the thickness of the actual hardwood veneer on top.
We guide you through selecting the right grade for your lifestyle. We don't sell materials, but we will inspect what you've chosen or recommend trusted local suppliers to ensure you aren't buying a product that will delaminate in five years.
Answers to your most pressing questions about engineered flooring.
Yes. 100%. The top layer is genuine hardwood (Oak, Maple, etc.). The core is usually wood plywood. It is not plastic (like Vinyl) and it is not a photograph (like Laminate). It smells like wood, feels like wood, and adds value like wood.
It depends on the wear layer. If your floor has a wear layer of 3mm or thicker, yes, it can be sanded and refinished at least once. If it is a thin veneer (1-2mm), it can only be "screened and recoated" to refresh the shine, but not fully sanded down to raw wood.
Engineered wood scratches just like solid wood—it is the same material on top. However, many pre-finished engineered floors come with Aluminum Oxide finishes, which are significantly harder and more scratch-resistant than site-applied finishes.
Clicking usually indicates an uneven subfloor. If there is a dip in the concrete, the board bends when you step on it, causing the joint to make noise. This is why we are obsessive about subfloor leveling prep before installation.
Generally, yes. Glue-down feels more solid, sounds less hollow, and does not bounce. However, floating is a valid option for basements with potential moisture issues or for acoustic soundproofing requirements in condos.
We generally advise against it. While more stable than solid wood, it is still wood. Standing water from showers or tubs will eventually damage the core or cause the veneer to delaminate. Tile or Luxury Vinyl is better for full baths.
Use a microfiber dust mop daily. Use a pH-neutral cleaner (like Bona for Hardwood Floors). Avoid wet mopping with buckets of water. Never use steam mops, as the heat and pressure can drive moisture into the core and cause delamination.
The Janka rating applies to the top veneer. So a Hickory engineered floor is just as hard as a solid Hickory floor (1820). The core does not change the surface hardness, but it adds structural stability.
Reasonably. It is better than carpet (cleanliness) but can scratch. We recommend a "rustic" grade with knots and hand-scraped texture, as this hides dog claw scratches much better than a smooth, clear grade.
Yes. Real estate appraisers and buyers typically value engineered hardwood the same as solid hardwood. It is considered a premium floor covering, unlike laminate or vinyl which are considered "budget" options.